Monthly Archives: December 2006

Another Day by the Sea

Yesterday was such a fun day!  We all woke up early and Jacq and I went out for breakfast and met the crew at the beach in the afternoon.  On our way to the bus stop, we spotted two white-faced monkeys crossing the street on the telephone wires above.  It was awesome!
As it turned out, the trip to the beach proved to be a wildlife excursion in itself.  In the palm trees above us, we spotted more white-faced monkeys.  This time they were playing and jumping from branch to branch.  We also came across a trail of leaf-cutter ants on our way out. 
The entire day was basically spent on the beach.  However, just before the sun went down, we headed up to a fancy hotel on the hilltop and snuck into their pool for an absolutely breathtaking sunset.  I have seen many amazing sunsets in my life and this one came pretty close to taking the cake. (Becs, it was about even with the sunset we saw on the sailboat in Belize … except there was no reggae music in the background this time.)
We all stood there, silently watching Mother Nature during one of her finest moments.  And of course, during the silence, a typical Jacq and Meg situation played out:

Imagine if you will …
Meg: [thinking] Wow.  This sunset is unforgettable.  It almost feels like the world has stopped for a moment so everything in the sun’s path can enjoy this remarkable show.  I feel so lucky … like I have nothing at all and yet everything I need.  Amazing …
Jacq: “Wait, is Mahi-Mahi dolphin?  Did I just eat a dolphin sandwich for lunch?”
Meg: [smiling] “Oh Jacqie …”

After our peaceful moments on the cliff we all headed back to the hostel to partake in a little rum and coke drinking on the veranda.  The plan was to head out for dinner afterward but everyone was tired (and some were drunk) from our long day in the sun.
Jacq and I however, snuck out for a little while to grab some dinner alone while the rest stayed back.

We’ve decided to stay in Manuel Antonio through New Years.  I think it’s a great decision as we didn’t have any other plans for the holiday and we both love being so close to the sea.  I’m still not having any luck with photo uploads but I did spy another internet cafe yesterday afternoon so I’ll check it out this afternoon or tomorrow.

The rest of the crew is leaving this morning … they’re all heading back to the ranch without us.  I’m really sad to see them go.  I’ve enjoyed them very much. 

I think Jacq and are heading to the national park today in hopes of a sloth siting.  I’ll let you know what we find.

Have a wonderful day!

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Manuel Antonio

Ahhh, the ocean!
Yesterday, after a fun filled Boxing Day at el rancho, Jacq and I boarded three buses – along with Nate, Sparky, Kathy, Larissa, Dickie, Seth, Guy and Paul – for Manuel Antonio.  After a long three-day, Christmas weekend of food, games and rest, everyone was looking forward to a break by the sea (ahh, life is hard).
Manuel Antonio is very touristy and a bit expensive this time of year but the bright blue Pacific is a sight for sore eyes. 
Our first stop in town was a beautiful bar overlooking the sea.  It was a great meeting place for us as no one had a reservation and everyone had to try and find a hotel during the busiest week in town.  Somehow, Jacq and I, along with the rest of the crew, managed to land a room at a cheap hostel with unbelievable ocean views. 
Once we were situated we headed straight for the beach for a frisbee game in the crystal-clear waves.  The water is the warmest I’ve ever felt in my life (definitely beating out Belize and Hawaii) and the sand is a beautiful white.  The entire beach vibe is awesome.  The people are nice, the atmosphere is chill and the drinks are flowin’ (if you know what I mean … and I know you do).  
Today I saw my first Squirrel Monkey hanging out in a tree near the beach.  He was so cute and I was extremely excited to have finally seen one.  Over the past few weeks almost everyone at el rancho had seen them during walks down to the swimming hole or waterfall but every time I had accompanied them, the monkeys wouldn’t show themselves.  It was almost becoming a bad joke.  So, as you can imagine, I was ecstatic to actually see a real monkey in it’s natural habitat … well, as natural as it can get in this part of the country.
After the monkey excitement, we ended our evening with a great dinner at an open air restaurant.  The food was yummy and the breeze was warm. 
I’m so happy to be here.  Jacq and I are having a wonderful time.  We’re meeting great people and we feel very happy with our decision to move forward with this trip.
I’ll try and upload some photos tomorrow and post again.

Until next time … Pura Vida!

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Rancho Mastatal

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It has been weeks since I’ve written and I apologize to all the faithful and wonderful readers who have been checking the site in hopes of a new post.  I loved the ranch so much that I convinced Jacq to meet me in Mastatal so I could extend my stay through Christmas and celebrate the holidays with him and all the new, wonderful friends I had made.  Unfortunately, there was no internet available to update the blog and let everyone know where we had disappeared to.

Mastatal is the most naturally beautiful place I have ever seen in my life.  The town is located in the heart of a virtually untouched rainforest.  It’s situated about 1000 feet above sea level, has no paved roads and no downtown area to speak of. 
The ranch itself is a small oasis in a large jungle that, at times, feels it could easily eat you alive.  Robin and Tim, the owners of the ranch, bought about 300 acres of property with the hopes of creating a completely sustainable farm.  They’ve been working on their land for over 5-years now and in that time have single handedly made an dynamic and incredibly positive impact on the local environment and the community.

Right now the main focus at the ranch is sustainable building.  There are currently four completed houses and two other standing buildings (which are current projects awaiting completion).  Eleven full-time, local employees  work year round with the volunteers to complete the foundational and structural work on all new construction at the ranch.  Once a building is structurally secure, Tim, Robin and the volunteer staff use natural substances to complete the inter-workings of the structures (ie: the interior and exterior walls, the floors, the furniture, etc).  The buildings are structured with bamboo and the walls are made from a mixture of bamboo and cob and are finished off with a limestone wash.  The process is really interesting.  During my stay at the ranch I was able to take part in some of the natural building work.  I spent a day grating clay and mixing the fine pieces into fresh cow manure to create cob.  Yes, I danced in cow poo and it was awesome!  Using that mixture, some of the other volunteers schmeared the cob onto a bamboo-wicker wall structure through a process called wattle and daub.  A layer is applied to each side of the bamboo-wicker wall, set to dry and eventually will be finished with a limestone wash to protect it from the rain. 
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On top of the construction work, volunteers are encouraged to delve into other projects on the ranch as well.  In my short time there I contributed to all sorts of activities:  I helped clear a waterfall on the property (Eric and I swam upstream with saws in our hands, climbed the rock formation on the side of the fall and sawed off some huge pieces of debris that had been lodged in the waterfall, obstructing the water flow – afterward we jumped off the rocks into a deep, cool swimming hole.), grated clay and danced in manure (which I mentioned above), composted the gardens, harvested papayas and bananas, made bread from scratch and baked it in the cob oven (that was awesome!), chartered virtually untouched areas of the rainforest, mapping paths as we went so Tim and Robin could have maps of paths on their property (we found another huge, awesome waterfall with an great swim hole below), built a rock pathway and watched Nate and Mike make benches in the wood shop.  The ranch makes all their own furniture, as well as their own soap and mead – two projects I didn’t have an opportunity to experience first hand. 

Each volunteer is also assigned kitchen shifts: two on breakfast, one on lunch and three on dinner.  Everyday (except Sunday), breakfast is at 7am and morning meetings are at 8am.  After the meeting the volunteers split up to work on different projects until lunch (12:30ish).  After lunch, work stopped and play began.  Every afternoon there were group games: horse shoes, ultimate frisbee, basketball, ping pong, etc.  The early evenings were spent laying in hammocks, playing cards and dominos or reading.  Dinners were almost always at 7:30 and almost everyone was in bed by 10:00.  The exception was Sundays which were ultimate Sunday Fundays – no work, all play.

During my two week stay I spent a lot of time outdoors.  In the afternoons I took a few opportunities to walk to the nearby town of San Miguel to call my mother and check in.  The walks were long and hot but the wildlife and scenery were definitely a fair trade off.  A group of us also spent an entire day venturing out on a waterfall trip.  The trip involved a long hike down to the river and small hot springs and a hour and a half tube ride through rapids to an enormous – at least 100 ft – waterfall with a crystal clear swimming hole. 
During my stay I got to see horses, cows, bulls, toucans, parrots, armadillos, spiders, vine snakes, poison dart frogs, toads, lizards and all sorts of small insects … including lots of cockroaches.

My experience at the ranch was like nothing I can really describe.  I was moved by the kindness and patience of the community, blown away by the warmth Tim and Robin exuded and touched by the acceptance of the other volunteers.  In just two short weeks I made amazing connections with people and hope to continue the new friendships I created. 

Rancho Mastatal has a charitable foundation that I encourage everyone to donate to.  The ranch is literally changing an entire community: pushing education, employing men and women, helping the schools, building self esteem and teaching about rain forest conservation, among so many other things.  If you’re interested in learning more about Rancho Mastatal, or donating to their non-profit organization, please click on the link on the right blog roll titled “On The Road”.

Many thanks to Tim, Robin, Cattia, Lily, Junior, Ania, Ian, Liz, Kaleb, Ericka, Susan, Eric, Guy, Paul, Nate, Mike, Erin, Michael, Sue, Sparky, Seth, Dickie, Larissa, Kathy and the entire town of Mastatal for an incredible experience that I’ll never forget!

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To Downtown and Beyond …

Downtown San Jose is a maze. After carefully examining the map over breakfast yesterday morning, I thought it would be easy. I mean, it looked easy enough. The city is laid out in a grid-like pattern. Avenida Central runs through the center of town and divides the town into two sections: the even numbered calles and avenidas are on one side and the odd on the other. All of the streets and avenues are in ascending/descending order and are perpendicular to each other. Easy right? Wrong. As I quickly found out, there are NO street signs anywhere. And of course (anyone that knows me well enough will expect this) I made a wrong turn immediately leaving the hostel and wound up on the complete opposite side of town from where I was heading. Eventually I got on the right track and once I was comfortable, I was able to really look around as I cruised the calles.
San Jose is extremely dirty. Filthy really. I was stunned by the amount of garbage strewn about. And I’m not just talking about litter on the sidewalks, I’m talking bags of garbage that people just leave in the middle of sidewalks. I actually saw two different men, wearing city uniforms, with wheel barrels and shovels, scrapping the oozy-black goop from the city sewers and shoveling it into their barrels.
The city is extremely smoggy and noisy too. Lots of big buses and cars shooting all kinds of black exhaust into the atmosphere while leaning on their horns through every intersection. Mix all of that with the heat and humidity and it doesn’t make for a nice stroll. I opted out of doing any kind of running in San Jose because some of my walks left me coughing and gasping for fresh air.

However, with all of that said, the people are nice and everyone I’ve encountered has been patient and helpful. Lord knows I need patience and help.
I was pretty successful in all of my undertakings yesterday. I managed to find a bookstore I had read about that sells a large variety of books in English, buy a calling card, make a photocopy of my passport and find a tourist agency that could assist me in figuring out where to catch the bus I need to take to Mastatal this morning. I also had two official conversations in Spanish; the first when I popped into a cafe during a small bout of rain and the second when I cashed out some traveler’s checks at el banco.

Last night the hostel filled up. I got two more roommates, filling my dorm to capacity. Over dinner I met a nice young girl from New York and spent the evening sitting around the pool, drinking Pilser with her, a man from Portland and a guy from Bombay.

This morning I’m off to Mastatal. I’m a bit nervous about catching the bus but I’m sure I’ll do fine. I won’t have any access to the internet while I’m away so I won’t be posting for quite a few days. I will, however, keep a journal and update the blog when I return.

Until next time …

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San Jose

Hola from Costa Rica,

Ahhh, I have finally arrived! It has been a long and tiring day thus far.
I boarded a plane in San Francisco at 12:30 this morning, caught a connecting flight in El Salvador around 7:30am (5:30 California time) and touched ground in Costa Rica at 10:00am. After receiving my first stamp in my brand-spanking-new passport, my adventure officially began. My prearranged pickup didn’t arrive to pick me up from the airport. Knowing that the airport taxi drivers tend to rip people off, I somehow managed to communicate with an older gentlemen who gave me a ride to the hostel. I was impressed with my ability to communicate with him as I’m learning quickly that my little knowledge of the Spanish language isn’t as impressive as I imagined it would be.
The weather is warm but it hasn’t stopped raining all day (damn, I wish I hadn’t unpacked my umbrella at the last minute last night). When I arrived at the hostel this morning, the power was out. This, of course, led to an interesting shower experience as I stood in the dark hoping that I would not have an encounter with any of the big bugs I have heard about. (It’s pretty remarkable how your mind can play evil tricks on you in the dark).
My roommate seems to be okay. Actually, that’s a lie, she doesn’t seem to be much of anything yet. I tried to introduce myself but she shied away from me after mumbling something. I don’t think she speaks English. I suppose this could be a blessing.
Due to the weather, I haven’t stepped out of the hostel to explore any of the city. I was told that the weather is nicer in the morning so my plan tomorrow is to wake up early, eat some breakfast and hit the streets of San Jose.
But for now, today, I’m just trying to relax and let go. You would think it would be an easy thing but this is all just finally starting to sink in. This is what my life will be like for next year. And to paint a picture for you, right now, I’m sitting in a open, covered patio, listening to reggae music and watching the rain drops hit the surface of the blue tiled swimming pool. It’s unreal and really very weird!

Have a wonderful evening. I will post again soon.

Love,
Meg

ASIDE: Some of you are probably wondering why Jacq’s presence didn’t make the final cut in this first post. Well, Jacq’s schedule conflicted with our travel plans so he stayed back in San Francisco to take care of some business and will be meeting me in two weeks; it was a last minute change but we managed to rearrange things. I was able to move around my reservations and apply for an internship at an organic/sustainable living ranch in a small town in Mastatal. I will be heading down there on the 13th and will stay through the 22nd. While I’m there, I will be learning about bamboo building and agroforestry. I will also be completely sucluded from the outside world as the nearest internet cafe and phone are miles from the ranch. I posted the Rancho Mastatal website under the blogroll titled On The Road. Feel free to check it out.

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